Sunday, October 5, 2008

Amsterdam - Take 2

Feeling like a bit of a baby at the fact that my legs feel like someone took a baseball bat to them, I did some quick math on how much walking I’ve actually done in the past two days. It turns out, from the point the tram dropped me off yesterday with my suitcase, to this moment, I have walked at least 5 miles/8 km. Not too bad for two days time, but I’ll say I’ve enjoyed every minute of it.

So this morning, not to let a little leg ache and some rain take me down, I woke up early and headed to the Anne Frank Huis (House). By far the best place I’ve been on this trip – and not only because it has been the only building I’ve been to in which I could actually go inside. No, this really was a fabulous – yet eerie – experience. When you first enter, you walk into the museum, which was the warehouse section of the building where the Franks (and 4 others) hid from the Nazi’s. At first I was a little disappointed in that it’s didn’t feel real – mostly because they’ve re-done it quite a bit to make way for the museum. But as you walk up the steep stairs and through the hidden doorway behind the book case and into the Annex, it hits you at just how real this place is. You can almost feel the ghosts as they brush by you. The place remains empty (the way the Nazi’s left it), at the request of Otto Frank, who was the only survivor of this home. But the walls are still intact, including the Hollywood pictures that Anne pasted up to “brighten up” the room; as are the kitchen fire oven and the toilet/sink. Throughout the house are encased artifacts that Miep Gies (the women who helped them hide) saved from the Nazi’s when they raided the house; and in every other room there is a TV playing footage of Miep or another talking about the Frank’s and the Nazi’s. Very powerful experience.

From there I walked over to Dam Square where I met the New Amsterdam Free Tour. For anyone travelling in one of 8 European City’s where they are located, I would highly recommend this tour. For the price of a mere tip our guide walked us around the city, in the pouring rain, and showed us every major (and minor) tourist site, while adding a bit of history and humour to the tour. She took us past the Old Church, the New Church (only slightly newer than the Old Church), the Red Light District, the Whipping Wall of the Spin Huis where Prostitutes were jailed in the 1800’s, the Mint Tower, the Weigh House and numerous Coffee Shops, to name just a few.
A few interesting Amsterdam facts:
  • It turns out that in the 17/1800’s church’s were purposely built in what would become the Red Light District so that the sailors coming into port could access both sin and salvation in the same sector. Men coming in from months or longer at sea would take their wages straight to the women and then make their way to the priests who would absolve them of their sins, for a small fee of course.
  • Women in the Red Light District do not work out of their homes. They actually rent their window from the government. For how much you ask? Approximately 75-150 Euros for an 8 hour shift. This may seem like a lot, however, I am told that the women get by quite well. It’s a minimum of 50 Euros for a 15 minute “interaction”, however the women, I understand, are the masters of the up sell. Gives new meaning to the term, “She’s got you by the b…” or maybe that is where it came from. Hmmm
  • Marijuana is not legal, but rather decriminalized. The difference? About 5 grams :) The sale and possession of marijuana is actually illegal, however, not really monitored (given the amount of money it makes for the government, similar to prostitution). Coffee Shops sort of fly under the radar, as long as they don't advertise the selling of marijuana. Coffee Shops are supposedly the only place you can "legally" purchase marijuana, while Smart Shops are the only place you can purchase Magic Mushrooms.
  • They estimate that about half the marijuana is grown locally, while the rest is imported. From where? Canada of course :)

My tour group outside the bar/coffee shop where a scene from Ocean's 12 was shot (Clooney and Pitt in the bar talking in code trying to set up a job)


After the walking tour was over I came back to my hotel to change my clothes – cold and wet does not really do justice to my state at that point. With a fresh pair of socks and dry pants I ventured out again to find a coffee house (one that serves coffee). Not being able to find one open (Sunday’s are pretty quiet here), I decided to head back to my hotel. Unfortunately I was on the wrong side of the canal – yes, without a paddle :) While walking to the next bridge to cross over I was “christened’ by a local as he splashed water onto me while driving by.

All this to say, I am now writing this entry warm and cozy in my last dry pair of pants from my hotel café where I am finally enjoying a hot cup of coffee.

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